The lights from far below us and all around us were twinkling last night. All the coach parties and tourists had left and Mount Etna was left in peace.
This morning we woke to clear skies so headed up on the first cable car. Spotted lots of yellow rocks (hardened sulphur deposits) and mad scramblers on the way up.
Decided against the 3-5 hour walk/scramble on the loose rocks/dirt (even Sarah did not fancy this) and took the easy route from the top of the cable car by jeep/truck, winding upwards to 2900 metres.
When we all piled out of the truck we were herded like sheep around a steaming crater.
Some spectacular views down the mountain but the sulphuric gas spewing from the top of Etna (last erupted in May 2015) made us cough.
To the left a rare view of the top of Erna (not in cloud but in gas!)
The crowds and the clouds were gathering even with the early start..
The guide gave us 2 short briefings and left us to scramble around the 2001 crater by ourselves.
The 2001 crater was still steaming - but now only at 200C according to the guide.
Sarah decided to wear black (NZ influence or trying to blend into the background?)
More red volcanic rock surrounding earlier craters. These pop up from time to time apparently, but the guide assured us they usually have plenty of notice.
By the time we headed down the hill again the clouds had covered the top of Etna and most of the track, so we felt rather smug!
We drove down the mountain heading northeast in search of a vineyard on the North side that had been recommended by Berry Brothers, UK. Graci near Passopisciaro.
Arrived at lunchtime to find only an aggressive dog and a security guy. (Of course on Sunday everything is closed in rural Italy, unlike in Australia where vineyards open for lunch at weekends.)
He directed us back into the nearby village where the barkeeper called the local wine bar owner out to talk to us and show us around.
We purchased a few bottles of Etna Rosso (Nerello Mascallese grapes) and Bianco (Carricante grape with 5% riesling) plus a jar of pistachio paste (as a gift)!
The lower slopes of Etna are intensively farmed and very very fertile, thanks to all the volcanic activity - there are masses of vines, olive trees, oranges, lemons, nuts and peach trees and honey.
Some of the old vines are amazing. They have survived volcanic eruptions and can be dated back to pre wine blight (phylloxera) in 1860s.
We also stopped at another picturesque cliff top village, Castiglione di Sicilia, for (what else?) gelato.
We also discovered this was the scene of a WW2 massacre by the Germans in 1943.
As the Italians were fighting on the side of the Germans at that stage, we wondered why the Germans were blamed for the massacre but many things are unexplained./not mentioned.
As in many of these sleepy Sicilian villages, all the bars (and the streets) are jammed with men. We have not yet discovered where all the women are.
Finding our accommodation was extremely challenging - no one we asked in the street had ever heard of it.
Finally the owner came out on her moped to find us and lead us up and down narrow streets to the apartment we are staying at for 2 days. Had she mentioned it was next door to the town football pitch we would have found it - from miles away - in a jiffy. Sunday afternoon is obviously the time for local footie, and when someone scored I think you could probably hear the shrieking on Etna.
The match finished and we could finally relax with a cup of Lapsang tea (old HK habits...) perched high above the Ionian sea.
We explored the old town tonight up what seemed like endless sets of steps.
Wonder if it looks as good in daylight
Even though we did not cycle, we decided to have the dinner anyway. Four hours land 5 courses plus several amuse bouche in between, Sarah managed to squeeze a carry out of sticky toffee lollies into my handbag. Would anyone have guessed that Michelin starred restaurants provide carry out plastic boxes! Lollies now safely in fridge.
Well done on week one. Have really enjoyed our travel in Sicily with you. Amazing feats for the "one crutch" tourist!
ReplyDeleteA and L